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Today I worked out a bug that's been plaguing this version, so now I can move on to stabilizing the display under changing speeds and generating new images that use the full 15 LED's available on a side. I tried out a few today and grabbed some shots.
Finished the first prototype for version 3 of the POV board. This version is double sided (LED's on both sides), and has 15 LED's per side rather than just 8 LED's on one side. Because 30 LED's consume more power than the micro controller is able to supply, 30 transistors have been added to drive the LED's, which requires 30 additional resistors on the bases of the transistors. With all LED's lit, the board pulls over 3 watts of power. The board has other additional features such as a reset button and a larger voltage regulator, and may get more extras later.
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OK, now finished debugging Version 2 of the POV thingy.
I've upgraded to the ATmega168 MCU with 16K of flash, which is eight times more memory than the V1 board had using an ATtiny2313 (but it's still easy to run out of memory!). I've added a hall effect rotation sensor to track wheel movement. Added code to stabilize the image (in scale and translation) regardless of wheel speed. Added code to calculate speed in miles per hour and distance traveled in miles. The distance function should be extremely accurate, but the speed will be ballpark only because the internal clock on the MCU isn't very accurate. I can add an external crystal to make this spot-on, but it's not that big a deal to me. In an 8-mile test, my display was off by 6% from a normal bike computer. I can certainly live with that. Next step is to make a duplicate V2 board and run them both on the same wheel, positioned on the same side but opposite each other. This will cause the image to look much better, especially at slow speeds. |
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Here's a shot of the speed/distance display in action. |
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I recently completed my P.O.V. (Persistance of Vision) project. A POV device flashes lights in a pattern very quickly. When the device is put into motion (perhaps by attaching it to a wheel or even just holding it and swinging your arm in a wide arc), the timing can be adjusted such that the light patterns form words or graphical images. I used the AVR ATtiny2313 micro controller and some old amber super-bright LED's for this project. I attached the tiny circuit board to the back wheel of my bicycle and turned the pedals to put the device in motion. Please see the pics below: |